Nepali mountaineer Pemba Gelje Sherpa achieved an impressive feat on Wednesday by reaching the summit of Mount Manaslu, which stands at a towering 8,163 meters, in just 12 hours. What makes this achievement even more remarkable is that Pemba accomplished this feat without relying on bottled oxygen. This incredible accomplishment has now established a new world record for the fastest ascent of the world’s eighth-highest mountain.

Dawa Futi Sherpa, the Operation Manager, who organized the expedition, shared the news of Pemba’s rapid climb. he revealed that Pemba began his ascent from the base camp at 7 p.m. on September 26 and successfully reached the summit at 7 a.m. the following day.

The previous record for the fastest climb of Mount Manaslu was held by Italian climber Francois Cazzanelli, who completed the ascent in 13 hours back in 2019. Additionally, he set another record by completing the round trip from the base camp to the summit and back in just 17 hours and 43 minutes. Pemba’s achievement has now eclipsed this previous record, marking a significant milestone in the world of high-altitude mountaineering.

Pemba Gelje Sherpa is part of a new generation of climbers who are passionate about promoting adventure tourism and mountaineering expeditions in Nepal. Dawa emphasized his role in furthering this cause, highlighting the positive impact he and his peers are having on the country’s adventure tourism industry.

Hailing from the Solukhumbu district, Pemba Gelje Sherpa is a certified IFMGA mountain guide. At just 31 years old, he has already achieved an impressive 21 ascents of 8,000-meter peaks while leading clients, including an impressive six ascents of Mount Everest. Pemba is rapidly emerging as one of the most successful and accomplished guides for leading expeditions in the challenging and majestic Himalayan mountains. His remarkable achievement on Mount Manaslu solidifies his status as a prominent figure in the world of mountaineering.

Pemba Geljie Sherpa 1
image source: Pemba Gelje Sherpa

He wrote on social media “

After a month spending time with aspirant guides in Manang and with little plan, I left for Mt. Manaslu on September 22, 2023. The plan was to reach Manaslu in less than 13 hrs from BC. By no means, I intended to compete with any other climbers in the planet.

I had not been to an 8000ers after my Everest summit in spring 2023 but I always have the ready to go mindset for any mountains I could get to.

However, I could not have achieved what I was able to do in Manaslu without the support of cousin Chhewang Sherpa, who now lives in NYC. United States and the Ultimate mountaineering legend of this generation Mingma G. And Furtemba Sherpa, whose support at the BC was instrumental to get me going. I am grateful to these supermen and many others whose support was rocket booster to my will. I am also tremendously grateful to the Lamas who stayed all night praying for me.

Huge Congratulations to Taylor Andrews for what he has achieved. You are one of the greatest athlete and true winner. I grew up as a monk and spend time in the monastery so competing is not in my nature and would have happily left the race to let someone else win. Though the world now dubs this climb as a race with Andrew, for me it was not and he is a bigger winner from whom I can learn a lot. I only climbed a little faster and was able to reach the true summit and return back safely so I will cherish that.

Francisco, you are a true hero of the mountain and I have enormous respect for you. I didn’t break your record, I just happened to reach a little earlier. Records and achievements are made and broken but our ability to stay humble and respect the mountain is the only legacy we can leave for this eternal unconquerable creation and force of Nature. I want to inspire aspirants and would be climbers to climb high while respecting the mountains.

We can achieve big things by complementing not competing, and that’s how I reached the Manaslu true summit. Thank you everyone for the enormous support!

Thank you!”