Table of Contents

January 07, 2023


Alex Txikon along with six Nepalese sherpas safely returned to Base Camp yesterday after summiting Manaslu. They are currently resting and recuperating. Manaslu is the second winter summit after Nanga Parbat.

Meanwhile, Simone Moro has flown back to Kathmandu due to some health issues. Simone moro wrote “Alex and the team who made it to the top of Manaslu in winter after 39 years since the first winter on that mountain. Congratulations!!! On the other hand, I landed a little over an hour in Kathmandu, time for a shower and before going to the hospital for the necessary checkups I will write to you to update you.

I’m basically fine, I think I have a bowel problem that’s caused me uninterrupted diarrhea for the past 3 days. Those were perfect days for Manaslu summit attempt, the one I was waiting for 5 years, got ready and strategically started using to reach the summit. The physical illness was unforeseen, the weather could not be postponed, the dangers attached to a strong physical weakness could not be avoided.

Climbed fast with Alex Txicon and Chhepal Sherpa from 4850 yards to 5900 meters of field 1. Then more and more slowly I reached 6300 meters less than an hour from field two but the continuous discharge of dissentery made me realize that I had to choose and make a decision.

It was obvious to me: returning to the base camp before being exposed to the camps and the already high altitude represented a serious problem for both me and the whole group. In fact, there were 5 more sherpas that had left the day before and were waiting for us at field 2.

Alex and Chhepal tried to convince me, they even said they would be pitch 2 or 3 waiting for me but I told them the window of outstanding weather they absolutely had to take it and take advantage of it and go to the top.

So they did and reached the top of Manaslu in winter after 39 years since the first winter on that mountain.

I went back to the base camp alone and followed with joy their climb. I am not accustomed to getting sad or regretting a piece of life that has different epilogues for my person. I’m glad I shared many winters with Alex and that he peaked on the perfect day we had courted and waited.

Fate didn’t want me to be there, but the whole team made the project happen. Fate didn’t even decide that I’ve lost motivation… Another constructive goodbye to the Nepalese mountains and now waiting for Alex to party with him and the whole team.”

Al 1
Image source: Alex Txikon

Cho Oyu

There is no latest update from the team. They are retrieving equipment lost from camp 1 where they found a few Down suits and sleeping bags in the crevasse but not everything.


David Goetter and Herve Barmasse have set base camp on Dhaulagiri and also completed the puja ceremony. They are now ready for the final acclimatization rotation.

image source: David Goetter