May 02, 2023: An American climber, Jonathan Sugarman, has died at Camp II on Mount Everest, as reported by the expedition organizer. The 69-year-old medical doctor from Seattle suddenly fell ill during his acclimatization rotation at Camp II and unfortunately, succumbed to his condition. Sugarman was part of the International Mountain Guides (IMG) expedition, which Beyul Adventure locally managed.

This is not the first time Sugarman attempted to climb Everest. Last year, he abandoned his climb from Camp III after successfully scaling Lobuche and Island peaks with IMG. While the details of his illness and cause of death are still unclear, it is a tragic reminder of the dangers that come with mountaineering.

Expedition Organizer is currently attempting to airlift Sugarman’s body from Camp II. However, bad weather conditions are making the recovery process challenging. The US Embassy in Kathmandu is also working with Beyul and IMG to retrieve Sugarman’s body from the base camp.

Before his mountaineering pursuits, Sugarman was a Clinical Professor in the Departments of Family Medicine and Epidemiology at the University of Washington. He had graduated from Harvard and was a highly respected medical professional.

This marks the fourth death on Everest this season. Just a few weeks ago, three Sherpa climbers lost their lives in an avalanche in the Khumbu icefall on April 12. These deaths serve as a stark reminder of the inherent dangers of mountaineering and the need for climbers to take appropriate precautions and be aware of the risks involved. Our thoughts and condolences go out to Sugarman’s family and loved ones during this difficult time.


Everest is currently experiencing snowy weather conditions, leading most climbers and the rope-fixing team to descend to the base camp in the Himalayas. So far, the rope fixing team has cleared the way up to Camp IV.

This year, a record number of 466 climbing permits have been issued for Everest in Nepal. However, the narrow weather window could lead to traffic jams on the way to the summit this year.

Tragically, in 2019, at least 11 people lost their lives on Everest, with some of the deaths attributed to traffic jams.