10/30/2023: Renowned international mountain guides, Joshua Jarrin from the United States and Oswaldo (Ossy) Freire from Ecuador, achieved a significant milestone by successfully conquering a challenging 6,567-meter peak in the Langtang region. This achievement marked the first-ever successful ascent of Dhagpache peak from the East Face route using an alpine style of climbing. Their triumphant moment occurred around 6:10 pm on October 28.

The journey began on October 24 when the team, under the leadership of Ossy, set out for the Langtang region to commence their climbing activities. The ascent proved to be highly technical, taking nearly 30 hours to accomplish. Ossy, who was returning from the summit, described the climb as a remarkable feat and the first known ascent of Dhahpache.

The Department of Tourism confirmed that the two-member team had achieved the first successful ascent of Dhagpache from the East Face route and named their route “Between fairies and unicorns.” They completed the climb in 29 hours and 19 minutes, with climbing grades denoted as ED, M4+, and WI5+ 90°.

Oswaldo freire
Image souce: Oswaldo Freire

Oswaldo Freire, aged 50 and hailing from Ecuador, is an experienced climber with numerous notable accomplishments, including the first traverse of all the summits of El Altar, two expeditions to the South Face of Aconcagua, and a challenging ascent of Peak Lenin. He has successfully reached the summits of Manaslu and Everest without the use of supplemental oxygen.

Joshua Jarrin, a 37-year-old climber also from Ecuador, boasts an impressive climbing resume, having summited peaks in various mountain ranges worldwide, including the Andes, Patagonia, the Alps, the Dolomites, the Himalayas, and the Tien Shan mountains. Notable achievements include ascending Mt Everest, Pumori Peak in Nepal, the South face of Aconcagua in Argentina, and Khan Tengri in Kyrgyzstan. He stands out as one of the few climbers to have accomplished two ascents of the south face of Aconcagua in Argentina.

The team’s next destination is Ganchenpo, a 6,378-meter peak, which they plan to conquer in the coming days. They are joined by three other Sherpa guides for this expedition. The necessary permits for Ganchenpo and Dhagpache were obtained from the Department of Tourism for the autumn season.