October 04, 2023: Nirmal Purja and Mingma G, two accomplished Nepali mountaineers, are on the verge of achieving a remarkable milestone in the world of high-altitude mountaineering. They are both striving to become the first Nepali climbers to conquer all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen.
Even when faced with adverse weather conditions during their ascent of Cho Oyu this past Monday, neither Mingma G, nor Nirmal Purja, decided to turn back. Both of them currently boast an impressive record of 13 successful summits, and their ultimate goal is Shishapangma.
As they make their way to the Shishapangma Base Camp today, all eyes are on the weather forecast. If the predictions hold true and the weather improves by Friday, they could potentially reach the summit over the weekend.
A team equipped has been stationed on Shishapangma for the past week, with the possibility of some Chinese expeditions being in the vicinity as well. Given the favorable weather conditions earlier, it is likely that the normal route has been partially secured with fixed ropes.
What sets their achievements apart is that, strictly speaking, both Nirmal Purja and Mingma G were leading their teams and guiding clients when they successfully summited these peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen. This accomplishment underscores their extraordinary endurance and mountaineering prowess.
Their ability to forego supplemental oxygen was made possible because of the substantial team size, which included sherpas equipped with oxygen. These sherpas are primarily responsible for ensuring the safety of their clients and typically rely on supplementary oxygen to perform their duties effectively, especially in emergency situations.
It’s worth noting that attempting a no-oxygen climb is a significant personal achievement and a testament to the climbers’ skills and determination. However, it requires the climbers to secure their clients’ consent and take additional precautions. This typically involves carrying backup oxygen masks and bottles to be prepared for unforeseen challenges.
As of now, neither Nirmal Purja nor Mingma G has disclosed whether they, or someone within their teams, carried backup oxygen. Nevertheless, their remarkable journey to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen continues to captivate the mountaineering world, setting new standards of achievement in this challenging realm.
