July 22, 2023: Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, a 32-year-old climber from the Rolwaling valley of Nepal, has etched her name in history by becoming the first Nepali woman to successfully scale three of the world’s highest peaks in Pakistan in a single season. Dawa Yangzum’s remarkable achievement is not only a testament to her skill and determination but also a groundbreaking moment for women in the mountaineering world.
The news was confirmed by Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, Director of expedition organizing company, who informed that Dawa Yangzum reached the summits of G1, G2, and Nanga Parbat within the span of just 16 days. G1, standing at a formidable height of 8,080 meters, is the 11th highest peak in the world, while G2, soaring at 8,035 meters, ranks as the 13th highest. Nanga Parbat, reaching a colossal 8,126 meters, claims the title of the ninth-highest peak globally.
Dawa Yangzum’s journey to accomplish this extraordinary feat began with her scaling of Mt Kanchenjunga during the previous spring season. With her recent success, she has now conquered a total of twelve 8,000m peaks, making her one of the most accomplished climbers in the world.
But Dawa Yangzum’s contributions extend beyond her own achievements. As the first Asian woman International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) certified mountain guide, she has been instrumental in mentoring young girls aspiring to pursue mountaineering. By providing them with climbing gear and training, she has played a pivotal role in fostering a new generation of female mountaineers.
Her accolades do not end there. Dawa Yangzum holds the distinction of being the youngest K2 summiteer and the first Nepali woman to conquer Annapurna I without supplemental oxygen. She also achieved the first-ever ascent of Mt Langdung and has successfully climbed other iconic peaks, including Everest and K2.
In 2014, she was among the pioneering trio of Nepali women who achieved the historic feat of climbing Mt K2 under the Women for Change Expedition. Her expertise as a guide also led her to lead the National Geographic scientific research team on expeditions to Mt Everest in 2019, 2022, and 2023.
In recognition of her outstanding contributions to the world of mountaineering, Dawa Yangzum has received numerous awards, including the prestigious Kumar Khadga Bikram Sahasik Puruskar and Tenzing Hillary Award.
With her sights set on even greater accomplishments, Dawa Yangzum plans to take on the remaining two peaks above 8,000m – Cho-Oyu and Sishapangma – in order to complete the incredible feat of conquering all 14 peaks in this category. As the second vice president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, she continues to inspire and blaze a trail for women in the mountaineering world, proving that the sky is no limit for those with passion, determination, and skill.